Northumberland
A Northumberland Road Trip: Castles, Coastlines, and Canine Companions
Setting Off from Essex
Our journey to Northumberland kicked off in Essex. With the car packed, the dog eager to get going, and excitement in the air, we drove the 2.5 hours to Doncaster. Once there, we checked into a budget dog friendly hotel for just 50 pounds. The hotel was not only affordable but also provided great value, offering a clean and comfortable place to unwind. It was the perfect spot for a restful night after a long day of travel, and with the dog happily settled, we were ready to continue our adventure the next morning, refreshed and recharged for the next leg of our trip.
A Hearty Start at Cusworth Hall
The following morning, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at Cusworth Hall, a historic estate surrounded by peaceful parkland. The Butlers Tearoom, located within the estate, offered a cozy and inviting atmosphere, perfect for unwinding. We savored a substantial breakfast, relishing both the delicious food and the calm, picturesque setting. The charming tearoom, with its classic décor and views of the lush grounds, provided the perfect start to our day. Refreshed and relaxed, we were ready to continue our journey.
On the Road to Cresswell Towers
After a hearty breakfast, we embarked on a 2.5-hour drive to Cresswell Towers Caravan Park, our main base for the trip. Along the way, we made a special stop to visit the famous Angel of the North, the towering steel sculpture located near Gateshead. Its sheer size and bold design make it one of those landmarks you simply can’t pass by without appreciating. We took some time to marvel at its impressive wingspan, standing tall against the sky, and snapped a few photos. It was a perfect chance to stretch our legs and reflect on the sculpture's significance before continuing the rest of our journey to Cresswell.
Lunch at The Drift and Arrival in Cresswell
We reached Cresswell around 4pm, but before heading to our accommodation, we made a stop at The Drift Cafe in Blakemoor for a late lunch. The cafe had a warm, inviting atmosphere that immediately made us feel at home. After hours on the road, the comforting, home-style food was exactly what we needed, rich, hearty dishes that filled us up and gave us a chance to relax. We enjoyed the cozy surroundings and friendly service, which made it the perfect pit stop before checking in and continuing with our plans for the evening.
Exploring Warkworth Castle
We began our sightseeing at Warkworth Castle, a remarkable medieval ruin that sits majestically along a bend in the River Coquet. The castle's imposing stone walls and towering structure stand out against the surrounding landscape, offering a striking silhouette that can be seen from miles around. The peaceful, picturesque village of Warkworth, with its cobbled streets and quaint cottages, adds to the charm of the location, making it a perfect blend of history and natural beauty. Exploring the castle’s grounds and taking in the panoramic views of the river and village made it one of the highlights of our journey.
Alnmouth: A Coastal Gem
From there, we made our way to Alnmouth, a charming coastal village located just four miles from Alnwick. Originally a thriving fishing port, Alnmouth transformed into a popular seaside resort with the arrival of the railway. Today, the village is known for its picturesque charm, peaceful beaches, and rich golfing history, offering a relaxing escape with stunning views of the coastline. It’s a wonderful place to unwind and soak in the tranquil atmosphere.
Literary Treasures at Barter Books
One of our trips took us to Barter Books, a secondhand bookstore located in a beautifully restored Victorian railway station in Alnwick. The shop was full of character, with shelves packed with books of all kinds, and its cozy, welcoming atmosphere made it a perfect place to spend time. The store was also dog-friendly, allowing us to enjoy lunch in the cafe while surrounded by books. While we were there, we had a chat with the American owner, whose passion for the bookstore was clear. It was a lovely place to explore and unwind.
Whitley Bay and St Mary’s Lighthouse
After that, we explored Whitley Bay, where we were captivated by the impressive Spanish City with its grand dome along the seafront. Originally an entertainment complex, the building’s striking architecture stands out against the coastal backdrop, making it a perfect spot for photos. Nearby, St. Mary’s Lighthouse stood tall on a tidal island, offering a stunning view from the beach. The lighthouse, with its bright white structure and red top, made for a beautiful photograph, especially with the changing light of the sky. It was a perfect place to take in the beauty of the coastline.
Watching the RNLI in Amble
In Amble, we were fortunate enough to witness the RNLI lifeboat crew in action as they practiced maneuvers in the harbor, all while battling challenging weather conditions. The sight was both impressive and humbling. As the wind whipped across the water and the sea churned in unpredictable patterns, the crew navigated their lifeboats with precision and skill, executing tight turns and coordinated moves that showcased their expertise.
Watching them work, it quickly became clear just how crucial their role is in the region. The RNLI (Royal National Lifeboat Institution) has a long history of saving lives at sea, and seeing the crew practice in real-time gave us a deeper appreciation for the courage, training, and dedication required in their line of work. Despite the harsh weather, they moved with a calm assurance that only comes from years of experience and unwavering commitment to their mission.
The intensity of the practice session, combined with the harsh conditions, was a stark reminder of the risks that lifeboat crews face on a daily basis. It also reinforced the significance of their work in ensuring the safety of those out on the water, whether it's local fishermen, sailors, or tourists.
As we stood by the harbor, observing their work, we were struck by the quiet heroism of these men and women who risk their lives to protect others. It was a powerful moment that left us with a profound respect for the RNLI and the vital service they provide to coastal communities.
The Majesty of Bamburgh Castle
A trip to Northumberland would not have been complete without a visit to Bamburgh Castle, a true highlight of the region. Perched high above one of the UK’s most stunning beaches, the castle stands as an imposing and awe-inspiring landmark, its medieval stone walls rising dramatically against the backdrop of the North Sea. As we approached, its sheer size and commanding position were immediately striking, offering panoramic views of the coastline that stretched for miles in either direction.
The castle’s history is as vast as its size, with its origins dating back over 1,400 years. Originally the seat of the Kings of Northumbria, it has witnessed centuries of battles, invasions, and changing tides of history.
What really set Bamburgh apart, however, was its breathtaking location. The castle sits atop a dramatic outcrop of volcanic rock, offering unbeatable views over the expansive beach below, where golden sands meet the ever-changing sea. On a clear day, the vistas from the castle’s walls were nothing short of spectacular, stretching out to the Farne Islands and beyond.
The beauty of the beach, with its wide expanse of sand, dunes, and gentle waves, added to the sense of wonder. It was the kind of place that makes you stop and appreciate both history and nature in one breathtaking moment.
Bamburgh Castle is the kind of landmark that leaves you in awe, not only for its size and architecture but for how perfectly it fits into its surroundings. Whether you’re interested in history, architecture, or simply soaking in the beauty of the landscape, it’s a must-see destination that truly embodies the spirit of Northumberland.
Wildlife at Seahouses and the Farne Islands
Next, we made our way to Seahouses, a lively coastal village that’s famous for its connection to the Farne Islands. The village has a bustling harbor, with plenty of boats coming and going, and it’s a hub for wildlife tours, thanks to its proximity to the islands, which are renowned for their rich birdlife and seal colonies.
Eager to experience this natural wonder firsthand, we booked a tour with Billy Shiel’s Boat Trips. The tour was nothing short of amazing. As we sailed out of the harbor, the rugged beauty of the Farne Islands slowly came into view. The islands themselves are steeped in history, with ancient lighthouses and a landscape shaped by the sea, but the real highlights were the wildlife encounters.
We were fortunate to get up close to the seals, which were lounging on the rocky outcrops, basking in the sun. Their relaxed demeanor and curious eyes as they looked up at us were a reminder of how undisturbed and wild this part of the coast remains. The boat also took us past colonies of seabirds, and we were treated to an incredible display of birdlife—puffins, gulls, and terns soaring overhead, diving into the waters, and nesting on the craggy cliffs.
It was an unforgettable experience—being surrounded by such vibrant wildlife in their natural habitat. The combination of the stunning scenery, the fresh sea air, and the opportunity to observe these creatures in their element made the trip feel special. Whether it was watching the seals on the rocks or simply soaking in the beauty of the coastline, this tour gave us a deeper appreciation for the unique ecosystems of the Farne Islands.
A Surprise Celebrity Encounter
While having lunch at a nearby fish and chip shop named Hooks, we unexpectedly spotted Robson Green savoring a quiet coffee. Famous for his roles in Soldier Soldier, Extreme Fishing, and Weekend Escapes, he seemed to be off the clock, so we decided to let him enjoy his break. It definitely made the day more interesting.
A Magical Visit to Holy Island
Before heading to Holy Island, we made sure to carefully check the tide schedules, as the island is only accessible by a causeway during low tide. This added a layer of anticipation to the journey, knowing that timing was key. The causeway itself, stretching across the tidal flats, felt like a gateway into another world as we drove across it, with the sea slowly receding behind us.
Holy Island, also known as Lindisfarne, is a place of both natural beauty and historical significance. Once we arrived, we were immediately struck by the sense of tranquility that enveloped the island. The bustle of the mainland felt miles away, although with increasing tourist visiting, it didn't stay that way for long. The island’s landscape is dominated by sweeping coastal views and ancient ruins.
As we journeyed through the island, we absorbed its rich history, especially its ties to early Christianity. Lindisfarne Castle, situated on a rocky outcrop, provides stunning views of the surrounding waters and serves as a reminder of the island's strategic significance in the past. The remnants of Lindisfarne Priory, where the renowned Lindisfarne Gospels were produced, enhanced the island's historical richness.
Border Charm in Berwick-upon-Tweed
Further north, we visited Berwick-upon-Tweed, a historic town located right on the Scottish border. Its unique position has given it a complicated past, having changed hands between England and Scotland numerous times over the centuries. This layered history is still visible throughout the town and adds a distinct character to the place.
One of the standout features is the Royal Border Bridge, an impressive 28-arch railway viaduct that spans the River Tweed. It’s a striking piece of engineering, and even if you’re not especially into trains or architecture, it’s hard not to be impressed by its scale and setting.
We spent some time walking along the old town walls, which are some of the best-preserved fortifications in the country. The path offers a great overview of the town and the surrounding coastline, and it’s an easy, manageable walk with plenty of spots to stop and take in the view. The walls themselves give a sense of the town’s military past without being overwhelming or overly touristy.
Berwick has a practical, lived-in feel. There’s a mix of historical interest and everyday activity, locals going about their business, independent shops, and a few good spots to grab a bite or a coffee. It’s not flashy or over-commercialised, which makes it easy to enjoy at your own pace.
A Stop in Beadnell
We visited a charming coastal village called Beadnell, a place that feels like one of Northumberland’s little secrets. It doesn’t seem to be very well known, which only adds to its appeal. Tucked away along the shoreline, Beadnell exudes a peaceful, laid-back vibe that instantly puts you at ease.
The village itself is small and picturesque, with quaint cottages, a quiet harbour, and stunning views that stretch across the North Sea. There’s a gentle simplicity to Beadnell, no crowds, no rush, just the soft sound of waves lapping against the shore and the occasional seabird calling overhead.
We enjoyed a leisurely afternoon walking along the beach, feeling the sand beneath our toes and letting the refreshing sea breeze envelop us. The coastline stretched endlessly, and we lost ourselves in the present moment, free from any schedule or distractions, simply revealing in the joy of being by the ocean.
This place encourages you to stay awhile. You could easily spend hours wandering along the shore, gathering shells, observing the shifting light on the horizon, or just sitting back and taking it all in. Beadnell may not be widely known, but for us, it felt like a little piece of coastal paradise.
Hexham on the bank of the River Tyne
We spent a few tranquil and truly memorable hours in the picturesque village of Hexham, nestled quietly in the heart of Northumberland. From the moment we arrived, it felt as though we had stepped into a slower, more peaceful era. The village exudes an old-world charm that's hard to describe but easy to feel, cobbled streets winding gently through clusters of historic stone buildings, each one telling its own story through weathered facades and ivy-clad walls.
The centerpiece of the village, the awe-inspiring Hexham Abbey, stood proudly against the soft spring sky. Its towering arches and ancient stones seemed to radiate a calm dignity. We spent time wandering inside, marvelling at its intricate architecture and the deep sense of history.
Afterward, we strolled through the town centre, where time seemed to slow. Small, locally owned shops lined the streets, each offering unique treasures—antique books, handmade crafts, and locally sourced treats. We found a cozy cafe tucked into a quiet corner, where we savoured a warm coffee and cake and watched the world go by from a sunlit window seat.
Hexham is not just a place to visit—it’s a place to experience. It gently encourages you to pause, breathe, and take in the quiet magic that surrounds you. I left with the distinct feeling that I could have stayed longer, happily lost in its timeless charm.
A Somber Visit to Hadrian’s Wall and Sycamore Gap
Before we headed home, we made one last stop at Hadrian's Wall, the famous Roman fortification that once defined the northern border of the Roman Empire in Britain. Stretching across the rugged terrain, the wall is a remarkable example of ancient engineering and stands as a lasting legacy of Rome. As we strolled along its worn stones, we reflected on the centuries of history embedded in its foundation.
Close to the wall, we visited Sycamore Gap, which was once known for the beautifully solitary tree that stood in a dramatic dip between the hills. This tree embodied resilience and natural beauty, perfectly framed by the surrounding landscape and cherished by photographers, hikers, and travelers from all over the world. Unfortunately, it was cut down in 2023 in a shocking act of vandalism that left many devastated. Standing there in the silence where the tree once thrived, its absence was deeply felt. The gap seemed emptier, as though nature itself was in mourning.
Being there without the tree served as a poignant reminder of the fragility of both our natural and cultural landmarks. It was a reflective moment on the impermanence of places that seem timeless and on the necessity of protecting and valuing them while we still can.
Reflections on the Road
This road trip far surpassed all our expectations, from the moment we arrived in Northumberland, we were enchanted by its stunning natural beauty, with incredible coastlines that stretched for miles, dramatic cliffs, and serene beaches that seemed endless. Every turn revealed another breathtaking view.
The region's rich history was just as impressive. We explored ancient castles and historical ruins that told tales of a bygone era, with each site adding depth and character to our journey. Walking through these places felt like being transported back in time.
What made the trip even more special was the warm and inviting nature of the towns. Stopping in a charming village for a leisurely stroll or enjoying coffee in a dog-friendly café made us feel right at home, with the locals offering their hospitality and kindness. Our dog thrived, receiving plenty of attention and treats at every stop.
As a wonderful bonus, we unexpectedly met Robson Green, the celebrity known for Soldier Soldier, Extreme Fishing, Weekend Adventure, and Grantchester, which added an exciting twist to our journey. I also had the opportunity to reconnect with an old friend and colleague I had not seen in over five years.
Northumberland's peaceful ambiance, rich history, and authentic charm have left a lasting impression on us. We are already imagining our next adventure.
